Go to.... Adhesive Tape Alcohol Apple Juice Baby Food Berries Blood Butter Candle Wax Candy Carbon Paper Catsup Chewing Gum Chocolate Coffee Cologne Cough Syrup Crayon Cream Deoderant Egg Eyeliner Face Powder Fingernail Polish Gelatin Glue Grape Grass Grease Hairspray Heel Marks Ice Cream Ink Ink/fleet tip Lipstick Liquid foundation Lotion/body Lotion/hand Lotion/santan Mildew Mud/Dirt Mustard Nicotine Oil Orange Paint/Latex Paint/Watercolor Pencil Lead Perfume Pet Stains Rust Salad Dressing Sauce Shoe Polish Smoke Soft Drinks Stains Tea Tobacco Tomato Unknown Stain Urine Vomit Water Spots Wine Yellowing This guide is easy to follow and you will find most fresh stains can be removed. However, for best result start with the first step and go on to the next step until the stain is removed. Skipping steps can lead to disastrous results. Adhesive Tape fabrics: acetate, carpets-synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool Gently scrape gummy matter from material, use dry cleaning solvent. If stain persists, apply to stain and cover with absorbent pad moistened with dry spotter. Change the pad as it picks up the stains. Allow dry completely. fabrics: acrylic, burlap, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex Gently scrape up the tape. Very carefully apply cleaning fluid to stain. If stain persists, apply wet spotter with a few drops of ammonia added, to the stain. Tamp and blot occasionally with an absorbent pad, flush with water and dry thoroughly. Alcoholic Beverages fabrics: acetate, burlap, felt, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool Blot up liquid. Spray on fabric spot cleaner, or flush area with cool water. Apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter and let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Keep the stain and pad moist, changing the pad as it picks up the stain. Flush with cool water, blotting excess liquid with a clean absorbent day. Dry thoroughly fabrics: acrylic fabric, cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex Apply fabric spot cleaner, or sponge the stain promptly with cool water. If possible, soak the stain in cool water for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Work undiluted dishwashing or liquid detergent into stain. Rinse well. Launder as soon as possible. Old or ironed-in stains may be impossible to remove. Apple/Apple Juice fabrics: acetate, carpet-synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, sponge area with cool water, then apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover stain with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Keep both the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water and repeat if necessary. If stain persists, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad moistened with a solution. Let it stand 30 minutes. Add more solution, if needed to keep the area warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is being lifted, flush with water. fabrics: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing or laundry detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water and launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water and launder as soon as possible.   Baby Food /Formula fabrics: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool Begin with blotting up the baby formula or scraping the solid baby food from fabric. Sponge with a dry cleaning solvent, or apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Keep pad and stain moist, changing pad as it picks up the stain. Allow to dry completely. fabrics: acrylic, cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex Blot up baby formula or scrape baby-food spills and rinse stain in cool water. Soak for 30 minutes in an enzyme presoak. Launder immediately if possible. If not, flush with cool water and allow to dry thoroughly. If stain has dried, repeated laundering may be necessary. SurfaceWallpaper: Carefully blot spilled formula or scrape up baby-food spills. Try wiping with a cool, damp cloth in even, overlapping strokes. Pat dry. If stain persists, try rubbing very gently with art gum eraser or a stale piece of rye bread to soak up the oily residue. Berries (Blueberry, Cranberry, Rasberry, Strawberry) fabrics: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, triacetate, wool Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, sponge with cool water. Then sponge the area with lemon juice or rub a slice of lemon over the stain. Flush with clear water. Blot as much excess liquid as possible and allow to dry. If stain still persists, apply wet spotter. Cover with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stained area moist with wet spotter. Flush with water. If any trace remains, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean, absorbent pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand for 30 minutes. Add enough solution to keep the stain and pad moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is visible, flush thoroughly with water and allow to air-dry. fabrics: Cotton, linen Test fabric for colorfastness. If color doesn't change, stretch the stain over bowl; fasten in place with a rubber band. Pour boiling water through the fabric from a height of 2 or 3 feet. Avoid splatters. This procedure must be done immediately. If stain persists, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1/2 teaspoon detergent for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. Sponge the area with rubbing alcohol and launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well and launder. Blood fabrics: acetate, burlap, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool, fiberglass Treat the stain as soon as possible; set bloodstains can be extremely difficult to remove. Sponge the stain with cold water. If the blood is still wet, this step should remove it. If any stain remains, apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk and wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter and ammonia. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed, changing the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with the wet spotter and ammonia. Flush thoroughly with cool water, making sure to remove all traces of the ammonia. If stain persists, moisten it with a solution of 1/2 teaspoon enzyme presoak-except on silk or wool- and 1/2 cup warm water. Cover the stain with an absorbent pad dampened slightly with the enzyme solution. Let it stand for 30 minutes. Add more solution to keep the stain moist and warm, but do not let the wet area spread. Flush with water and dry thoroughly. fabrics: Linen. acrylic fabric, cotton, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex Fresh bloodstains usually can be removed by a thorough laundering in cold water. If any stain remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon dishwashing or liquid laundry detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia for 15 minutes. tamp or scrape the stain, blotting occasionally with an absorbent pad. Continue as long as any stain is being removed. Rinse well with water, making sure to remove all trace of the ammonia. If the stain persists, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product. After 30 minutes, rinse well, then dry or launder. Carpet synthetic & wool , foam rubber Squirt carpet stain remover on the stained area. Another way to remove blood is to mix 1 teaspoon of mild, non alkali detergent with 1/2 pint lukewarm water. Add a small amount to the stain and blot the liquid. Do not force the stain further into the fibers. Continue blotting until no more stain is removed. If stain remains, add 1 tablespoon ammonia to 1 cup water (do not use on wool), sponge stain, and blot liquid. Continue until no more stain is removed. Place an absorbent pad over the damp area and weight it down. When no more liquid is drawn out, remove the pad and allow to air-dry thoroughly. Butter fabric: Carpet synthetic & wool acetate, burlap, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool. Scrape up as much of the solid butter as you can without driving any of it further into the fibers. Apply an absorbent (cornmeal for light colors, fuller's earth for dark colors) but do not press it in. Give the absorbent plenty of time of work. Remove the absorbent and, if needed, repeat the application. If any residue remains, sponge the spot with cleaning fluid or spot remover. fabric: Cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex, acrylic. Scrape solid butter. Pretreat with stain remover, blot the stained area, and launder as usual. If the stain remains or if immediate laundering is impossible, place the fabric stained down on an absorbent pad. flush with cleaning fluid through the back of the stain and blot with a clean, absorbent pad. Pre-treat again and rinse well or launder. fabric: Leather, Suede. Gently scrape to remove as much butter as you can. Rub the stain with a thick paste of fuller's earth and water. Let it dry and gently brush off the powder. Repeat if necessary. Then, for leather only, apply saddle soap. Candle Wax fabrics: Burlap, silk, wool/non-washable, rayon, acetate Freeze to harden the wax. Carefully scrape up as much wax as you can, then place an absorbent pad under the stain and flush with spot remover. Allow to dry. Repeat if necessary. fabrics: Cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester, wool/washable, spandex, acrylic Scrape to remove excess wax. Place the stained area between two pieces of white blotting paper and press with a warm iron. Change the paper as it absorbs the stain. This stain can easily spread, so use care while pressing. On colorfast fabrics, white cotton, or linen, try pouring boiling water through the stain. Allow to dry. If any trace remains, flush with dry-cleaning fluid. If any dye remains, sponge with 1 part rubbing alcohol mixed with 2 parts water. (Do not use on acrylic or modacrylic fabric.) Rinse well with clear water and dry. fabric: Carpet synthetic & wool Freeze to harden the wax. Gently scrape to remove it from the surface. To prevent damage to the backing, apply a small amount of cleaning fluid. Blot with an absorbent pad. Continue until no more stain is removed. If any dye remains, dilute 1 part rubbing alcohol with 2 parts water and apply it to the stain in small amounts, blotting well after each application. Allow to dry thoroughly. Candy/Non Chocolate fabrics: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool Scrape to remove as much of the candy as possible. Sponge with warm water. Spray on fabric spot cleaner or wet spotter with a few drops of white vinegar added. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Press down on the stain with a clean absorbent pad every 5 minutes. keep the stain moist with wet spotter and vinegar. When no more stain is being removed, flush with water. If any stain remains, repeat the process, using rubbing alcohol instead of the wet spotter and vinegar. (Do not use alcohol on acetate or triacetate.) When the stain is removed, rinse well with water to remove all of the sugar. On carpeting, blot the excess liquid with an absorbent pad. Then apply carpet stain remover. Allow to dry. fabrics: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex Usually, soaking or laundering in warm, sudsy water will remove the stain. If the stain persists, spray on fabric spot cleaner or soak the fabric, adding a few drops of ammonia to the soaking solution. Let the fabric soak for 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly with water. Next, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 1 hour (30 minutes for cotton and linen). Rinse well and dry. If stain persists, apply rubbing alcohol(do not use on acrylic or modacrylic) to the stain and tamp gently. Keep the stain is being removed. Rinse well with water. Dry or launder as soon as possible. fabric: leather, suede. Gently scrape candy from the hide. Mix a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water. Swish to create a great volume of suds. Apply only the foam with a sponge, stroking with the nap on suede. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. On leather only, follow with saddle soap to condition. Carbon Paper/Typewriter Ribbon fabrics: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, cotton, fiberglass, linen, rope, silk, triacetate, wool Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover it with an abosorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Keep the stain and pad moist. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. when no more stain is being picked up, flush with cleaning fluid. Scrape or tamp to help loosen the stain. When not working on the stain, keep it covered to minimize evaporation. Flush the stain with cleaning fluid. Allow to dry. On carpets, blot liquid, then apply carpet stain remover. Work undiluted liquid detergent into the stain, then rinse. If stain persists, apply amyl acetate to the stain and cover with an abosorbent pad dampened with amyl acetate. Keep moist for 15 minutes, blot with a clean, absorbent pad. Catsup fabrics: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool Gently scrape catsup from fabric. Sponge with cleaning fluid or treat silk by applying spot remover. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Keep the stain and pad moist. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. When no more stain is being removed, flush with cleaning fluid or reapply spot remover on silk. Allow to dry. If any stain remains, moisten it with a solution of 1/2 teaspoon enzyme presoak product and 1/2 cup warm water. (Do not use on silk and wool.) Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the enzyme presoak solution and squeezed nearly dry. Let stand for 30 minutes, adding more solution as needed to keep the area warm and moist, but do not let the wet area spread. Flush with water and allow to dry. On carpets, place a clean dry pad over the area and weight it down. When no more liquid is being absorbed, allow to air-dry thoroughly. fabric: acrylic fabric, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex. Scrape up as much catsup as possible. Apply wet spotter and work into the fabric. Rinse thoroughly with water and launder. If laundering must wait and any stain remains, apply an enzyme presoak paste and let it work a while, keeping the paste moist. Thoroughly rinse area to remove all trace of enzyme presoak paste. Allow time to dry, and launder as soon as posssible. fabric: leather, suede. Mix solution of mild soap and lukewarm water. Swish to create a great volume of suds. Apply only the foam with a sponge. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. On leather only, follow with saddle soap to condition. surface Wallpaper Wipe immediately, as catsup often permanently stains wallpaper. Use a damp cloth or sponge, overlapping strokes to prevent streaks. Gently pat dry with a soft cloth. Chewing Gum fabric: acetate, acrylic, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, cotton, fiberglass, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, rayon, silk, spandex, triacetate, wool. Freeze until gum gets hard. Carefully scrape or rub it from the fabric. Sponge with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If stain remains, reapply dry spotter and cover. Check the stain every 5 minutes and press hard against the stain. Continue the alternate soaking and pressing until all the stain has been removed. Flush with dry cleaning solvent. Dry. fabric: linoleum, vinyl tile, vinyl wallcovering. Freeze the gum to harden it. Use a dull tool, such as a metal spatula, to scrape the brittle gum without gouging the surface. If there is any residue, try rubbing it with a cloth dipped in spot remover or cleaning fluid. Wipe gingerly, then rub with fine-grade (000) steel wool. Wash the area and wax when dry. Chocolate/Cocoa fabric: acetate, burlap, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool. Blot or scrape up any chocolate from the surface. Flush the stain with club soda to prevent setting. Sponge the stain with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Keep the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If a stain remains, moisten it with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product-but do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let stand at least 30 minutes. Add more solution if needed to keep the stain warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When the stain is lifted, flush thoroughly with water and allow to dry. fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, nylon, modacrylic, olefin, polyester, spandex. Wipe up as much chocolate as possible without driving the stain further into the fibers. Flush the stain with club soda. Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Keep the stain moist with dry spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain remains, apply a few drops of dishwashing detergent and a few drops of ammonia to the stain, then tamp or scrape. Keep the stain moist with detergent and ammonia and blot occasionally with an absorbent pad. Flush well with water to remove all trace of ammonia. Allow to dry, or launder as usual fabric: carpet synthetic & wool. Blot up or scrape as much of the chocolate as possible. To prevent the stain from setting, flush with club soda. Try an application of carpet stain remover or a concentrated solution of a nonalkali carpet shampoo. After drying and vacuuming, if stain remains, mix 1 tablespoon ammonia with 1 cup water and carefully drop small amounts of the solution onto the stain. (On wool carpets, test in an inconspicuous corner first; ammonia can harm wool.) Blot with an absorbent pad. Flush area rugs or sponge carpeting with clear water. It is important to remove all trace of ammonia. Place a clean absorbent pad over the area weight it down. When no more liquid is being absorbed, allow it to air-dry thoroughly. Coffee fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, triacetate. Blot up coffee with a clean cloth. Sponge the stain with water. Apply fabric spot cleaner or wet spotter and a few drops of whiter vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Flush with water. Repeat until no more stain is removed. If any stain remains, moisten it with the solution of 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product and 1 cup warm water. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand for at least 30 minutes. Add more solution if needed to keep the area warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When the stain is removed, or no more is being lifted, flush thoroughly with water and allow to dry. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.) fabric: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex. Blot up coffee with a clean cloth. Soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. Sponge the remaining stain with rubbing alcohol and launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water. Allow to dry, but launder as soon as possible. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.) fabric: Burlap, silk, wool. Blot up coffee. Sponge the stain with water. Apply fabric spot cleaner or wet spotter and a few drops of white water vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water. Repeat until no more stain is being removed. If any stain remains, apply rubbing alcohol to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. Let stand as long as it is picking up stain, changing the pad as it does. Keep the stain and pad moist with alcohol. Flush with water. For a stubborn or old stain, try moistening the stain with a solution of 1 teaspoon enzyme pre soak product and 1 cup warm water-use only on burlap. Cover with a clean pad dipped in the solution as needed to keep the area warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When the stain is lifted, flush thoroughly with water. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.) fabric: carpet synthetic & wool, foam rubber. Blot up what you can. Apply carpet stain remover. Flush the stain with a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid laundry detergent or dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon of white vinegar. Blot with a clean pad and rinse well with water. If the stain remains, try flushing it with a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product. (Do not use wool.) Blot and flush alternately until no more stain is left. Sponge the area well with water. Blot all excess liquid and place a clean pad over the area and weight it down. When no more stain is being absorbed, allow the area to air-dry thoroughly. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.) fabric: cotton, linen. Blot up coffee. Pre-treat with pre-wash spot-and-stain remover, then launder immediately. If that is not possible, soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1/2 teaspoon dishwashing detergent for 15 minutes. Rinse well with clear water. Next, sponge the stain with rubbing alcohol. Rinse and allow to dry. If the stain remains, soak it in a solution of warm water and enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water and dry. Launder as soon as possible. Another method is to stretch the stained area over a bowl and secure with a rubber band. Pour boiling water through the stain from a height of 2 to 3 feet. Stand back to avoid splatters. Although cotton and linen can withstand boiling water, some of the finishes and colors used on the fabrics might be damaged by such harsh treatment. Be sure to test on an inconspicuous corner first. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.) fabric: leather, suede. Carefully blot up coffee. Mix a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water. Swish to create a great volume of suds. Apply only the foam with a sponge. Wipe dry with a clean, dry cloth. If an oily stain remains, powder the stain with an absorbent, such as cornmeal. Give it plenty of time to work. Gently brush it off. Repeat if necessary. On leather only, condition with saddle soap. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.) Cologne fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate. Flush the stain with water. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. An alternate method is to flush, then add a few drops of glycerine. Rinse well with water. If some stain remains, cautiously try a diluted solution of whiter vinegar. Make sure you work the stain inward toward the center to avoid leaving a ring. flush with clear water to remove the vinegar, and allow to dry. fabric: acrylic, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, rope, spandex, wool. Sponge the stain with water. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, apply wet spotter and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter. flush well with water. Repeat until no more stain is being lifted. If any stain remains, apply rubbing alcohol to the stain and cover it with absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. (Do not use this on acrylic or modacrylic.) Let stand as long as any stain is being lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with alcohol. Flush well with water and allow to dry. Cough Syrup fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool. Sponge the area with water. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. Then apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Repeat until no more stain is removed. If any stain remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. fabric: carpet synthetic & wool, cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester. Sponge area with water. Apply fabric spot remover, or carpet stain remover. Then apply wet spotter and few drops of white vinegar. (Do not use vinegar on cotton and linen.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water. Repeat until no more stain is removed. If the stain persists, apply rubbing alcohol and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep stain and pad moist with alcohol. If stain still remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. Sponge with alcohol. Launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes (not for use on wool carpets). Rinse well with clear water. Launder as soon as possible. For carpets, thoroughly dampen the area with the solution and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with the solution. Keep covered for 30 minutes. Using absorbent pads, remove as much moisture as possible. Allow the area to air-dry thoroughly. Crayon fabric: acetate, burlap, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool/nonwashable. Gently scrape to remove crayon. Place an absorbent pad under the stain and flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to dry. Repeat if necessary until all trace of the stain has been removed. fabric: acrylic, cotton, line, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex, wool/washable. Scrape to remove crayon. Place the stain between two pieces of white blotting paper and press with a warm iron. Change the blotter as the stain is absorbed. This stain can easily spread, so use care while pressing. On colorfast and white cotton or linen, try pouring boiling water through the stain. Allow the fabric to dry. If any crayon remains, flush it with dry-cleaning solvent. If any dye remains, sponge it with 1 part rubbing alcohol in 2 parts water. (Do not use this solution on acrylic or modacrylic.) Rinse well with clear water and allow to dry. fabric: ceramic glass/tile, glass, paint flat & gloss, plexiglas Gently scrape crayon from the surface. Take care not to scratch the surface. This should be sufficient to remove the stain. Wipe with a sponge dipped in a solution of washing soda or detergent (not soap) and water. Rinse well and wipe dry. On flat or gloss paint, grout, or marble, rub a mildly abrasive pumice bar lightly over the crayon marks. Remove any shine left on flat paint by sponging lightly with hot water. fabric: carpet synthetic & wool. Gently scrape as much crayon as you can from the surface. Add a small amount of dry-cleaning solvent, and blot with an absorbent pad. (overwetting may damage the carpet's backing.) Continue until no more stain is removed. If any dye remains, dilute 1 part rubbing alcohol with 2 parts water and test on an inconspicuous place. If the carpet proves to colorfast, apply the solution to the stain in small amounts, blotting well after each application. Allow to dry. surface: wallpaper Rub the crayon marks lightly with the edge of a mildly abrasive pumice bar, rubbing in several directions if the wallpaper is textured. An alternate method is to spray aerosol spotlifter onto the stain, or lightly rub the stain with a dry, soap-filled steel-wool pad. If the stain persists, rub it very gently with baking soda sprinkled on a damp cloth. Wipe away any residue with a damp cloth and dry. Cream fabric: acetate, carpet & wool, silk, wool/nonwashable. Remove cream immediately. Sponge with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stain moist with dry spotter. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain remains, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak (do not use on silk or wool). Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let stand for 30 minutes. Add more solution if needed to keep the area warm and damp, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is being lifted, flush the area thoroughly with clear water and allow to dry. fabric: acrylic, cotton, olefin, polyester, linen, modacrylic, nylon, spandex, wool/nonwashable. Immediately remove as much cream as you can. Sponge the stain with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain remains, apply few drops of dishwashing detergent and a few drops of ammonia to the area, then tamp or scrape. Keep the stain moist with detergent and ammonia and blot occasionally with an absorbent pad. Flush well with clear water to remove all traces of ammonia and allow to dry. Deoderant fabric: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, cotton, fiberglass, linen, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. Another method is to apply rubbing alcohol to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. (Dilute alcohol with 2 parts water for acetate, rayon, and tricacetate; test silk for colorfastness before using alcohol.) Keep both the stain and the pad moist. Allow to stand as long as any stain is being removed. If the stain remains (and as a last resort), flush with a solution of warm, sudsy water with a few drops of ammonia added. (Use special care on silk and wool.) Rinse with clear water. Apply a solution of warm water with a few drops of white vinegar added, taking special care with this solution on cotton and linen. Rinse again with clear water. Dry thoroughly. (If the color of the fabric has been changed, it may possibly be restored by sponging lightly with a solution of 2 parts water and 1 part ammonia.) Caution: never iron material.with a deodorant stain. The interaction of chemicals and heat will ruin most fabrics. Egg fabric: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, rayon, rope, silk, fiberglass, triacetate, wool. Remove the egg, then sponge with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stain moist with dry spotter. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain remains, moisten it with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let stand 30 minutes. Add more solution if needed to keep the are warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is being lifted, flush with clear water. fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex. Scrape to remove the egg and sponge the stain with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain persists, apply a few drops of dishwashing detergent and a few drops of ammonia to the stain, then tamp or scrape. Keep the stain moist with detergent and ammonia and blot occasionally with an absorbent pad. Flush well with clear water to remove all of the ammonia. Allow to dry. If any stain remains, moisten it with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand 30 minutes. Add more solution if needed to keep the area warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is being lifted, thoroughly flush the area with water. Eyeliner/Eye Pencil/Eye Shadow fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool. Brush or blot up any eye makeup, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain every 5 minutes. Press the pad hard against the stain. Continue the alternate soaking and pressing until no more stain is being removed. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, flush it with water and apply wet spotter with a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist. Flush well with clear water. Repeat if necessary ; allow to dry. fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex. Brush or blot away any spilled eye makeup, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with a cloth dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain often, tamping before changing the pad. Continue alternate soaking and tamping until no more stain is lifted. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, try the same procedure of soaking and tamping, using wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. When the stain is gone, be sure to flush the area with water to remove all trace of ammonia. Launder as soon as possible. Face Powder fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool. Brush or blot up face powder, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain every 5 minutes. Before changing pads, press hard against the stain. Continue the alternate soaking and pressing until no more stain is being removed. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, flush it with water and apply wet spotter with a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the pad and stain moist. Flush well with water and repeat if necessary; allow to dry. fabric: acrylic,cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex. Brush away or blot face powder, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with a cloth dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain often, tamping before changing the pad. Continue alternate soaking and tamping until no more stain is lifted. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, try the same procedure of soaking and tamping using wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. When the stain is gone, be sure to flush the area with clear water to remove all trace of ammonia. Launder as soon as possible. Findernail Polish fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool. Immediately scrape away fingernail polish with a dull knife or spatula. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Keep the pad and stain moist. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to dry. fabric: acrylic, burlap, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, rope, spandex. Scrape up the fingernail polish. Test acetone on an inconspicuous place. If fiber color doesn't change, flush acetone through the stain to an absorbent pad. When no more stain is being removed, change pads and flush well with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to dry thoroughly. fabric: carpet synthetic & wool. Scrape up as much of the fingernail polish as you can without forcing it into the pile. Apply amyl acetate to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with amyl acetate. Keep the area moist and let stand for about 15 minutes, blotting occasionally. Scrape to help loosen the stain. Flush carefully with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to dry thoroughly. Gelatin fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool. Scrape to remove gelatin. Make a paste with an enzyme presoak product and water - do not use on silk or wool. Let it stand on the stain for 15 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with water. For carpets, blot the excess water and allow to air-dry. Be certain that all the sugar has been removed. If any discoloration remains, treat it as a dye. (see dye.) fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex. Remove any spilled gelatin. Soak in a solution of prewash soil-and -stain remover and water as directed, and launder as soon as possible. Glue fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool. Immediately sponge the area with water. Spray on fabric spot remover. Then apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being picked up. Change the pad as it removes the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water and repeat until no more stain is removed. For lingering stain, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product- do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung dry. Let it stand 30 minutes. Keep the area and pad moist and warm, but do not let the wet area spread. When no more stain is removed, flush thoroughly with water and allow to dry. fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, olefin. polyester, rayon, spandex. Soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent or liquid laundry detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar. (Omit vinegar when treating cotton and linen.) Let soak for 15 minutes and rinse well with water. Sponge cotton or linen only with rubbing alcohol. Launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product 30 minutes. Rinse well and launder as soon as possible. Grape fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, triacetate, wool. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, sponge with cool water. Then sponge the area with lemon juice or rub a slice of lemon over the stain. Flush with water. Blot as much excess liquid as possible and allow to dry. If stain persists, apply wet spotter. Cover with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stained area moist with wet spotter. Flush with clear water. If any trace of stain remains, moisten area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean, absorbent pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand for 30 minutes. Add enough solution to keep the stain and pad moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is visible, flush thoroughly with water and allow to air-dry. fabric: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, sponge with cool water immediately. Then sponge with lemon juice or rub a lemon slice over the stain. Flush with water. Blot as much excess liquid as possible and allow to dry. If any trace of stain still exists, presoak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing or laundry detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with clear water and launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water and launder as soon as possible. fabric: cotton, linen. Test fabric for colorfastness. If color doesn't change, stretch the stain over a bowl; fasten in place with a rubber band. Pour boiling water through the fabric from a height of 2 or 3 feet. Avoid splatters. This procedure must be done immediately. If the stain persists, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1/2 teaspoon detergent for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. Sponge area with rubbing alcohol and launder immediately if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well and launder. Grass fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool. Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry thoroughly. When working on carpets, be sure to blot up the excess liquid during the procedure and before drying.